20v Black Top Conversion Tutorial for the AE86

Hey guys, this is a very important tute which I'm going to share with ya'll.. It's the bible in the world of AE86 lovers; the conversion tute for the Black Top 20v engine.

Embrace it, love it and cherish it. I found it online on a random site. The link is http://www.phuckdrifting.com/20Vinstall.html. Thank me later..... :)

So here goes........

For now this will be a short hand guide to installing a 20 Valve either from the AE101 or AE111 into the AE86 chassis. I will not go into wiring issues do to the fact that is a case by case basis.

*this will be a guide on top of what basic knowledge you should already have, like already knowing how to remove the factory 4A-GE engine.

1.) Assuming you already have both your original 4A-GE and fresh 20 Valve motor out of the vehicle. Place them on the floor next to each other.

2.) First start by Stripping off the necessary components off the original motor. These parts include; Header/Exhaust Manifold, Clutch and Flywheel Combination, Engine Mounts, Engine Stiffener Mounts, Clutch Driven Fan, Alternator Belt, Alternator, Alternator Bracket, and Radiator Hoses.

3.) Prep your new 20 Valve motor by stripping off what you do not plan to use. The Power Steering system off the 20 Valve motor is useless, throw that in the trash, the AirCon system from the 20 Valve motor is trash throw that away. All engine mounts, Alternator Mounts, and AC mounts are now trash as well. KEEP THE UPPER ALTERNATOR BRACKET, the one that helps support your OIL dip stick.

4.) Now transfer your factory 16 Valve exterior engine parts to your 20 Valve motor. Which include engine mounts, alternator mounts, etc etc…

5.) You’re probably stuck at this point aren’t you? You’ve noticed that you cannot properly bolt on your passenger side engine mount also known as the engine mount on the intake manifold side. There will be a small metal protrusion sticking out of the motor where your engine mount is supposed to bolt up to. Grab yourself a good set of vise grips and clamp onto this little metal piece. Tug and turn away until the piece has come free. If you cannot pull the piece off, pull out a hacksaw or dremel and cut it off.

6.) You’re still probably stuck aren’t you? You cannot figure out how you can properly bolt on your factory headers. Upon matching up the original headers to your 20 Valve motor you will notice that the two end bolts of the header do not align up with the bolt holes on the new motor. Anyway, easy fix…take out your hacksaw and cut away the end of your header. You will not need to cut off much, just enough that you can clearly see the bolt holes located in the head of the engine. About half of the bolt hole on the header is enough to be cut off. Once you’ve cut off the ends of the header, you should be able to reuse the supplied 20 Valve bolts that have washers and bolt on the header with no problems.

7.) Currently you should have almost a complete motor assembled ready to drop in correct? WRONG…you forgot your Clutch and Flywheel Combination, but wait…don’t go on and bolt on this yet. You need to head down to the auto parts store and purchase yourself a Pilot bearing for the 1986 Toyota Corolla GTS Rear Wheel Drive. Using a similarly sized socket lightly tap in the new Pilot Bearing into the end of the crankshaft of your engine. Once you’ve done this and your bearing is seated under the Taper in the crankshaft slot you can now proceed to bolt on your Clutch and Flywheel. Be sure to use a clutch alignment tool to align your clutch correctly.

8.) Now you should be ready to drop in your fresh 20 Valve motor…but wait…you have to cut your firewall…This is a time consuming task, you can either bang your firewall until its ready to tear, or you can cut away the firewall. The AE86 does not need to have its firewall cut, it simply needs to be banged until the firewall almost wants to tear from being banged so much. I cannot exactly say where you need to bang your firewall, but this is more of a trial and error situation. I myself am using a Waterline Relocation kit which I highly suggest if you can afford it, but it isn’t necessary for the motor to run correctly. Also be sure to plug up your factory waterline heater lines. You can use rubber caps with hose clamps, or if you have some other method like JB weld or something that you know will work that is absolutely fine.

9.) Oh before I forget you will also notice that you will not be able to reuse your factory engine stiffener braces. You will be able to use the passenger side brace though.

10.) alternator choices? you can use your 20 Valve alternator, or your 16 Valve alternator. I actually prefer the use of the 16 Valve alternators due to the cleanliness, but either will work. If you plan to re-use your 16 Valve alternator install your factory brackets and then your alternator assembly. If you plan to use your 20 Valve alternator which is fine, you will be required to change your connector from the 16 Valve to the new 20 Valve connector for this to work.

11.) One thing I’ve almost forgotten. On the 20 Valve waterlines there will be a white sensor which is usually broken that sticks out the side of the unit. It is an not required sensor which is for your factory gauge cluster. If you are to reuse your 20 Valve waterline unit this sensor cannot be used for the fact that it will hit your firewall. You can reuse it if you like, but you will have to cut your firewall for it to fit. If you plan to have a functioning coolant temp sensor, but cannot source the correct sensor, your factory 16 Valve sensor bolts directly into the hose outlet in place of the broken 20 Valve sensor.

12.) You should now be able to install your 20 Valve motor. By now you should have some questions? Power Steering? AC? Oil Cooler? Oil Pressure Unit? Fuel Line? Black Cylinder thing next to strut tower? answers for your questions… Power Steering and AC, will not be used on the 20 Valve motor. You can reuse these objects if you remove your 16 Valve crank pulley and have it shaved 3mm’s. once done install this pulley onto your 20 Valve motor and you should be able to have full access to your Power Steering and AC. Oil Cooler? the factory 16v oil cooler BARELY works if at all…if you would like to use an Oil Cooler purchase an after market oil cooler and install that unit. The 16v unit would be pointless to install into the 20v motor which requires high oil pressures. Oil Pressure Unit? simply swap this Bell looking object to your 20v motor. The 20v motor uses a simple dummy light which is useless. To remove both grab yourself a cloth and a good pair of channel locks or vise grips. Remember…Counterclockwise to loosen bolts.

Fuel Line? If you want to get it working easy, you can get yourself a metal barb and join your 20 Valve hose to the old 16 valve hose using hose clamps. If you want to make it nice, and spend a lot of money you can have someone make you a steel braded setup.

Black Cylinder next to strut tower? This is your factory charcoal canister. You can simply remove this or you can keep it there and make it function as factory. If you plan to remove this unit make sure you install a breather filter or plug up this line with a hose clamp and a rubber cap. If you plan to keep this unit in tact you can simply install the vacuum hose back to the original 20 Valve position.